I had never been to Geneva before. Until recently, I imagined it as a city primarily associated with business, finance and its position on the border. An international destination, certainly, but perhaps not quite the kind of place I would choose for a trip filled with discoveries, beauty and memorable experiences. I was wrong, and quite considerably so. Geneva surprised me with its cultural spirit, fascinating history, artisanal excellence and a much richer range of experiences than I had ever imagined. So much so that, having returned home, I am already thinking about going back in spring. And getting there from Milan is remarkably easy: the direct train makes Geneva a very convenient destination for a weekend away, without having to fly.
Three days were enough to discover a city with many different identities, where CERN’s scientific research meets the world of fine watchmaking, where museums dedicated to art and history sit alongside a celebrated chocolate tradition, and where gastronomy and the charm of the Old Town complete the experience. Here is my itinerary for discovering Geneva in three days.
Day 1 – The Old Town, Gastronomy and Chocolate
The best way to start exploring Geneva is by wandering through its Old Town. A guided walking tour takes you through cobbled streets, charming squares and historic buildings, revealing a side of the city that feels quite different from its international and financial reputation.
For lunch, I stopped at Brasserie Lipp, an address with a distinctly Parisian atmosphere, where the charm of traditional brasseries meets French and Swiss culinary classics.
The afternoon was devoted to one of Switzerland’s most iconic gastronomic traditions: chocolate. At La Bonbonnière, a historic Geneva chocolatier, I took part in a workshop combining an introduction to chocolate history, a tasting and a hands-on activity. It was a lovely opportunity to discover the art of chocolate-making and appreciate the craftsmanship and precision behind every creation.
The day ended at Les Armures, a historic restaurant in the heart of the Old Town, where traditional Swiss cuisine takes centre stage. Specialities to try include moitié-moitié fondue, made with Gruyère and Vacherin cheeses, raclette and Valais cured meats. For dessert, the classic meringues served with double cream from Gruyère are a must.
Day 2 – CERN, Art and Fine Watchmaking
The second day was dedicated to two seemingly distant worlds that represent some of Geneva’s greatest achievements: scientific research and fine watchmaking.
The morning began at CERN Science Gateway, CERN’s science education and outreach centre, designed to bring visitors closer to particle physics and the big questions of scientific research. Through interactive installations and immersive experiences, complex subjects become accessible and engaging. A visit I would particularly recommend to anyone who, like me, has a curious and slightly nerdy side.
For lunch, I headed to F.P. Journe Le Restaurant, the restaurant associated with the renowned watchmaking maison founded by François-Paul Journe, in collaboration with chef Dominique Gauthier. Awarded one Michelin star, it combines an elegant vintage-inspired setting with refined cuisine. Among the dishes I tried were Swiss veal tartare with Jerusalem artichoke and Parmesan, duckling from Les Dombes, and candied apple with Granny Smith sorbet.
In the afternoon, I stopped at Horloge et Carillon Malbuisson, one of the city’s most unusual clock installations, before visiting the Musée d’art et d’histoire. The museum houses important collections of art, archaeology and applied arts. During my visit, I paid particular attention to Canova’s sculpture, looking for a curious detail: a small dog hidden within the artwork, a little feature worth discovering.
The day continued with one of the most original experiences of the trip: a watchmaking workshop at INITIUM. Guided by a master watchmaker, I had the opportunity to explore the mechanics of a watch movement, learn about the tools and individual components, and try my hand at assembling part of the mechanism. A hands-on way to understand the precision, expertise and savoir-faire behind Swiss watchmaking.
For dinner, I chose Le Relais de l’Entrecôte, a restaurant known for its classic French formula: a green salad with walnuts, entrecôte served with its famous secret sauce, and French fries.
Day 3 – International Geneva and the Geneva Choco Pass
The final day began in the International Organisations District, an area that reflects one of Geneva’s most important identities: its role as a centre for diplomacy, international cooperation and humanitarian action.
My first stop was the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum, an exhibition space dedicated to the history of humanitarian action and the work of the international movement. Its displays invite visitors to reflect on conflicts, emergencies and the protection of human dignity, while exploring the role this organisation plays around the world.
The visit continued with a guided tour of the International Organisations District, taking in its architecture, parks and monuments. Highlights include the Palais des Nations, the European headquarters of the United Nations, the monumental Broken Chair by Daniel Berset, a symbol of the campaign against anti-personnel mines, and the large ceramic mural that characterises this part of the city.
For lunch, I stopped at Goodwin Steak House, an American-style steakhouse where I tried the 200-gram Black Angus filet mignon.
In the afternoon, I headed back towards the city centre to visit the Reformation Wall, or Mur des Réformateurs, in Parc des Bastions. The monument celebrates the leading figures of the Protestant Reformation and is an important reminder of Geneva’s religious and cultural history.
The final part of the trip was devoted to chocolate with the Geneva Choco Pass, a journey through five chocolatiers offering tastings and artisanal specialities. It is a wonderful way to discover some of the city’s historic and contemporary chocolate maisons.
The first stop was Chocolaterie Zeller, founded in 1959 in Place de Longemalle. The tasting included Princess almonds, a florentine, a nougatine praline and a candied orange covered in chocolate.
Next came Chocolats Favarger, a historic Geneva chocolate house founded in 1826, known for specialities such as Avelines, pralines combining chocolate and hazelnuts, and Nougalines, featuring a crunchy nougatine shell with a soft hazelnut centre.
The third stop was Du Rhône Chocolatier, founded in 1875 and renowned for creations such as Nobles du Rhône and Pavés de Genève. Here, I tasted a selection of six chocolates, including milk chocolate, dark chocolate and pralines.
The fourth stop was Canonica, a maison that combines artisanal tradition with creative experimentation. The tasting included six pieces and introduced some of its more unusual flavour combinations, including rose, Earl Grey tea, pistachio, caramel and passion fruit.
The journey ended at Guillaume Bichet, a more contemporary chocolate house founded in 2011 in Coppet, on the shores of Lake Geneva. Among its specialities are Amandes Princesses, roasted and caramelised almonds coated in chocolate. I had the chance to taste these alongside a selection of chocolates and a caramel-filled sphere.
Where to Stay in Geneva
During my stay in Geneva, I chose Le Square Hotel, a contemporary property located on Rue Pradier, in the heart of the city and just a short walk from Cornavin railway station. Its location is one of its greatest assets: many of Geneva’s main attractions can be easily reached on foot, while public transport connections are close at hand. It is also a particularly convenient choice for travellers arriving from Italy by train, thanks to its proximity to the station and direct connections to Milan.
I particularly appreciated the rooms, which were clean, well-appointed and characterised by contemporary design, as well as the peaceful atmosphere throughout the hotel – ideal for relaxing after a day spent exploring the city. Breakfast is modest in size but offers a good selection, with everything needed to start the day.
I would recommend Le Square Hotel to anyone looking for a centrally located, comfortable property with contemporary style, and an ideal base for discovering Geneva without having to rely constantly on public transport.
A City Worth Returning To
Three days in Geneva were enough to discover a destination far more multifaceted than I had imagined. It is a city where scientific research coexists with artisanal tradition, history intertwines with international diplomacy, and gastronomy becomes an integral part of the travel experience.
I returned home with the feeling that there was still so much left to discover. And my thoughts are already turning to spring: because Geneva, for me, was not simply a destination to visit, but a city I would genuinely love to return to.
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